posted under Tips & Tricks on Sep 23rd, 2010 with 0 Comments
If you think photography has gotten any simpler because it has shifted to digital technology, you'll be in for a huge surprise. For every aspect of photography that has gotten easier due to the switch to digital there has been something new added in its place.
Instead of archiving film, photographers now archive files on servers and external hard drives. Instead of developing film using chemicals and a dark room photographers now use a slew of software to process their images. This article is here to give you a head start in defining and creating a workflow to edit your photos.
If you don't have a proper system that's followed consistently these tasks will take much longer than necessary to complete, which creates additional costs to your business and takes away from time you could be spending shooting, working with clients and editing photos.
Alternatively, it's time that could be spent with loved ones or as leisure time, so keep your files organized. I personally shoot with one camera body, so I find the following important information to include in my file naming system: the date, subject, location and a unique number series.
As an example, if I shot some concert photos of Dave Matthews playing a set at the Molson Amphitheatre, one of my RAW files would look like this "20100910_DaveMatthews_MolsonAmphitheatre_28395.CR2". I use a similar structure for naming my projects in Aperture or Lightroom as well as the folders containing these RAW files, but I drop the unique number at the end.
This may seem a bit cumbersome and excessive it first, but it allows you to know exactly what files are at hand without having to open them, or even preview them for that matter.
More important than using this exact naming system is finding one that works for you and keeping true to it. Another important step in file management is a proper folder, rating, colour coding and tagging system in whichever photo editing software you decide to use. I personally use Apple's Aperture, but Adobe Lightroom is a very popular choice as well.
With storing all of my photo albums I find it very useful to keep my RAW files in a hierarchal folder system with the year, month and unique folder name I described earlier. I do the same with the versions (current live work) of photos I'm currently working on.
Also, your budget will limit how thorough and technologically advanced it is. The simplest way to backup your files would be to just make a copy of your RAW and livework files to an external hard drive, but there are many more advanced options.
I personally use Aperture's option to relocate master project files to move my RAW files to an external hard drive that's setup as a RAID 0 drive whenever I'm not working on them. This frees up space on my main work computer and let's me sleep at night knowing there are at least 2 copies of all the photos I've taken.
I also use SuperDuper to create a clone backup of my main work computer's entire drive to an external drive. This isn't the most robust method, but the key is that it fits my current budget and works for the amount of data I'm currently working with. If you'd like to check out a very thorough backup process I suggest you read through Chase Jarvis' post on backing up his files and watch the associated video.
The two most used colour profiles are sRGB, which is used by most web browsers and found in online media in general, and Adobe RGB 1998, which has a wider gamut of colours, but is a little rarer. To ensure that you're not experiencing any inconsistencies with the colours of your images you should be setting the colour profile on your camera, computer and editing software to be identical.
You also want to be using a colour profile with a larger gamut of colours than sRGB because it's easy to convert down to sRGB, but you'll lose colour information if you try and convert up.
With that being said, you should ensure that your camera, computer and image editing software are set to Adobe RGB 1998, but whenever you export a photo to be viewed on the web you should make sure to use sRGB so that anyone viewing the photo sees the same colours you are on your computer.
If you don't already have a process for selecting your images, the easiest method is to use a program like Aperture, Lightroom or even Photo Mechanic and flag the photos you like. It can get much more complicated than that, and much more useful too.
Many of these software tools come with suggestions for colour coding and other organization options. I personally like to label images red if they need my attention, green if they're 100% complete and ready for exporting and yellow if they're a file I'm currently working on.
I know some photographers like to use the 5 star rating system for their various levels of editing (ie. 2 stars for initial picks, 3 stars for in progress, 4 stars for completing initial edits and 5 stars for a photo that has been fully edited in photoshop and is ready for export), but I much prefer to use these ratings for distinguishing my best photos in any set, just like you would a music collection.
Image selection can be a stressful and challenging process since it is your own person cutting room; you're deciding what photos will see the light of day and be shared with the world. Developing an eye for image selection will happen over time with practice just as you will develop an eye for composition and many of the other facets of photography.
What I will say though is that just like every other part of the process, it is important to be consistent and stay organized. Try to process your photos following a similar pattern and create presets and other shortcuts to streamline your editing workflow. Many of the popular editing programs (Aperture, Lightroom, etc.) now have brushes and tools to apply edits to very specific and small areas of your photos.
These tools may seem intimidating at first, but they are very useful because they apply their effects directly to the RAW data of a photo, maintaining the highest quality photo possible. With using these new tools it's possible to avoid having to open Photoshop with achieving the same level of quality editing for your photos.
There will be many individuals out there with knowledge of Photoshop far exceeding my own and everyone will have their own editing style and process. I think the main point to be made is that Photoshop should be the last step of your actual editing workflow and you should be wary of it destructive properties and other costs.
Exporting photos with unique and descriptive names will help you identify them later after the details of the shoot have left your mind and will also aid in communicating clearly with clients. Also, don't forgot all those steps to ensure you had proper colour management. Most photo editing software will have an option for choosing colour profile when exporting, so you'll want to ensure you are using sRGB for any web photos and an appropriate profile for and other photos exported for screens or print.
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